The trip was an approx. 28 hour train ride deep into the
West of China. The four of us teachers were all separated on the train, and I
was a little nervous about being by myself. It’s big in China to be wary of
thieves on trains…I’ve even watched a Chinese movie just about that subject. I
had more bags than I could fit on the top bunk with me (I had a small suitcase…and
remember that top bunks are teeny, with just enough space for sleeping). So I
wasn’t sure how I was going to keep my bags safe.
But as soon as I got to my section of the train, and I was
looking for a place to put my things, the Chinese family that was in the same
section with me was very nice and helped me put them somewhere. I had intended
to pretend to speak no Chinese while on the train so as to avoid hours of being
interviewed when I mainly just wanted to rest. But I needed help with my stuff
and so I had to use it. Of course, once they discovered I could speak Chinese I
was certainly interviewed. But these people were very nice and so it wasn’t as
tedious as I thought it would be.
They asked about American culture and compared it with their
own. And I talked to the young lady of the family, her name was Wang Qie. She
was 24 and pregnant, traveling with her parents back home to where her husband
lived. I asked her if she was excited about her kid, and she said, “Meh, it’s
okay.” I thought that was interesting, because that’s not a typical response
that someone in the West would say. But I understand why she said it…it’s a
Chinese cultural expectation and it brings honor to your parents to get married
and have a kid, preferably a son. So she wasn’t having a kid necessarily
because she wanted one, as most Americans are, but to simply fulfill a societal
expectation. I liked her though, she was spunky and in fact she knew a whole
lot about different things. I asked her if she had a job right now, and she
said, “No,” then she joked, “taking care of my parents is my job now.” I really
enjoyed talking to her until she and her parents got off the train.
But really, most of the time it wasn’t just me and Wang Qie
talking together, it actually was more of a big party at my section of the
train. One of train workers stopped by
to chat with all the people in that section, I have a feeling it was because I
was there. Why? Because that was everyone’s initial excuse to come over to the
section. It started off as, “Where are you from?” And I said, “America,” and
then they’d join in on the conversation talking about the Americans they’ve met
or what they knew about America…and it was just a big party over in my section.
Even some people that weren’t part of the party were watching us and listening
to the conversation. It was actually really nice though and didn’t feel like I
was with a bunch of strangers because everyone was so friendly and jolly. One
lady even gave me her number to call if ever I was in Shiyan, a city very
nearby Xiangyang.
Even the next day in the morning and noon before we got off
the train a bunch of the train workers joined the one that was always at my
section talking, and joined in on the conversation. I was asked, “Those other
foreigners that are here on the train, are they with you too?” I said yes they
were, which then led to comments such as, “Do they speak Chinese?” “I don’t
think they speak Chinese.” “They don’t speak Chinese as good as she does.” “Next
time you take a train, you should buy the tickets all at the same time so you
don’t get separated like this.” I didn’t bother explain to them that we had all
kind of joined together at last minute and our plans originally had not
coincided. Then they proceeded to talk about things like the weather, what the
weather in Kunming was like, what the weather in all the places the train went and
each person’s hometown was like…with occasionally asking me, “Have you been to
___?” “No I haven’t.” “One day when you have time, you should go. It’s a great
place. That’s where I’m from.” Ultimately, I didn’t have to do a whole ton of
talking the whole trip; all the Chinese people at my little party were very
content to hold their own conversation with me just being there being enough. I
probably couldn't have jumped in too much even if I wanted to.
Also, during that time I was in fact able to rest for a good
amount of time. On the first day of the train ride after the conversation
petered out and everyone went to rest, I fell asleep. And /I slept for a LONG
time. I just couldn't get up. I could hear them talking below me, asking if their
“American friend is still asleep”, but I couldn't answer them because I was
still in the sleep world. And when it was lights out, I slept once again, but
not before watching my favorite movie The
Fellowship of the Ring. It was warm in the train and for the first time in
almost a month, I could sleep without shivering and tensing my whole body to
resist the cold. I think that this was the first stage of my getting better. I
wasn’t better yet, but even just knowing that I was getting away from the cold
was making me feel much better. Even my computer seemed better because even
just a day before I was never able to watch a three hour movie on just the
battery alone, and now I could all of a sudden do so…I think because the system
was not working harder through the cold.
And finally, at 3 pm of the second day, we got off the train…into
gentle warm breeze and sweet smells.
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